President Bush described the recent wedding of his daughter Jenna as “spectacular.” The standard for spectacular has changed over the years, but it is safe to say that one of the most spectacular White House weddings ever occurred on this date in 1874.
It was the wedding of Nellie Grant, the only daughter of President Ulysses S. Grant. The president spared no expense. The wedding dress cost $5,000, according to some reports, which by today's figures would likely need a couple digits added.
President Grant often showed disdain for formal social events. But his wife, Julia, had a flair for entertaining that surpassed anything that had previously been seen in the White House. No matter how uncomfortable Grant himself was, the White House during his administration set the standard for grand entertaining.
Nellie Grant's wedding was a morning ceremony. Afterward the guests were served what was called a breakfast. The menu consisted of soft-shell crabs on toast; mushroom and crab cakes in a cream sauce; chicken croquettes with green peas; woodcocks and snipes on toast; broiled spring chicken; lamb chops with tartar sauce; beef tongue in aspic; salad with a mayonnaise dressing; and wedding cake. The items were served as separate courses. After the wedding cake, guests had a choice of 14 other desserts and Roman Punch. I doubt that anyone left hungry.
Roman Punch was kind of like a slushy or sorbet mixed with alcohol. It was commonly used as a palate refresher or light summer dessert. In the administration of Rutherford B. Hayes, which followed Grant's, Roman Punch was banned from the White House. The Hayes family introduced Prohibition to the White House. Their idea of party refreshments was far different from the free-flowing bottles associated with the Grant presidency.
My version of Roman Punch is more quickly and easily prepared than the original version. Roman Punch can be made with many kinds of fruit. It is especially refreshing for summer entertaining.
Roman Punch
20 (1/2-cup) servings
3 cups frozen unsweetened peach slices
2 cups white grape juice
1/4 cup peach brandy, peach schnapps or orange liqueur (or more to taste)
4 cups dry white wine or champagne, chilled
Combine the peaches, grape juice and brandy in a blender or food processor. Process until smooth. Transfer to a pitcher or bowl and stir in the wine. Serve immediately while slushy.
Arlyn Hackett is a cookbook author and food historian. He welcomes e-mail at chefarlyn@cox.net
