Encinitas' Beach Grass Cafe has an eclectic California-casual menu

Maria Desiderata Montana
July 3, 2008

The dining room is accented with warm earth tones and wood paneling, with white-linen-covered tables scattered throughout. A stunning mural depicting select points of interest in Encinitas adorns the back wall. An eye-catching oak bar near the front adds an inviting touch for those in the mood to relax and socialize.

Crissy Pascual / Union-Tribune Lemon berry mascarpone cake is among the dessert choices at Beach Grass Cafe in Encinitas, sister to the popular Solana Beach restaurant of the same name.

The eclectic menu carefully explains the offerings for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Any chance I get, I stop in for my all-time favorite, Fried Linguine mixed with Roma tomatoes, feta cheese and fresh basil, scrambled with eggs and black pepper ($9.50). My partner, an omelet lover, always opts for the healthy California Scramble with spinach, tomatoes, avocado, onions, mushrooms, zucchini, peppers and cheddar cheese ($8.95).

Sweeter breakfast favorites include Upside Down Pineapple Pancakes ($8.75) or Honey-Granola Waffles with fresh berries ($10.45). Not so sweet but equally popular are the Huevos Rancheros, griddled tortillas layered with black beans and feta cheese, topped with two eggs and ranchero salsa ($9.50); and the Stir-Fried Rice scrambled with yams, scallions, spicy sausage, soy sauce and egg ($9.95).

Lunch consists of soups, wraps, burgers, sandwiches and tacos as well as quiche and grilled pizza. Vegetarians will enjoy the Veggie Wrap, with roasted red peppers, caramelized red onions, avocado, spinach, tomato, onion, lettuce, cucumbers and cream cheese ($10.95). For those preferring a salad with meat, the Montreal Steak Salad features spring-mix lettuces, tomatoes, avocado, red onions, cucumber and basil vinaigrette dressing with slices of seasoned flat-iron steak ($12.95).

Burger lovers have many options, such as the Blue Burger with Kobe beef, blue cheese, lettuce, tomato and caramelized red onions ($9.95); or the Grilled Lamb Burger with gorgonzola cheese, lettuce, tomato, black olive tapenade and sun-dried tomato mayonnaise ($10.25).

Distinctive sandwiches include the Ahi Salad Sandwich – ahi tossed with grilled pears, grilled red onion and sweet honey-tomato mayo, served on focaccia with spinach ($10.95); or the Moroccan Crab Cake Sandwich, with greens, tomato and spicy tartar sauce on grilled Village Mill white bread ($13.95).

I ordered not one but two appetizers for dinner. The Crab-Stuffed Portobello Mushroom ($12.95) has a solid, meaty texture; it's covered with provolone cheese, baked and served on mixed greens with a balsamic glaze ($12.95). The Tempura Avocado is a mouth-watering fresh avocado dipped in a light tempura batter, fried crisp and served with Cajun aioli ($7.95).

For dinner, the signature dish is fish and chips ($18.95). Red Snapper is battered and fried, and served with mashed potato cake, yam chips and house-made tartar sauce. If you prefer grilled fish, opt for the Atlantic Salmon served with a creamy cucumber dill sauce ($16.95).

Giving into my carnivore's appetite, I was impressed with the pork loin rib chop grilled with a demiglace sauce and garnished with grilled portobello mushroom, served with garlic mashed potatoes and veggies ($19.95). Other great options include a 12-ounce New York steak ($19.95) or flat-iron steak with bourbon peppercorn reduction sauce ($16.95).

For dessert I highly recommend Tres Leches, rich shortbread soaked in three kinds of milk – condensed, evaporated and heavy cream ($5.95). The homemade creme brulee with fresh berries is silky and luscious ($5.95). Other dessert specialties include mini-gourmet pastries, or little cakes meant for sharing in chocolate cream cheese, strawberry mousse, lemon mousse, Grand Marnier and Black Forest ($6.95)

Beach Grass Cafe, 1476 Encinitas Blvd., is open 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For information call (760) 942-2741 or visit beachgrasscafe.com.

Maria Desiderata Montana is a San Diego writer.

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